Paithan's Paithani



Paithani. A great many varieties of Silk Sarees are produced in India. Each of these varieties takes its very name after the center of its production, say an obscure Village or a town and or a City. Obviously, the silk enriched, globally famous " Paithani" takes its name after the present Paithan town, which in the century gone by in much ancient time, was famous in India as Pratishthan. It has an image of its own even now.

Main features of Paithani are its alluring finish. The borders of each sari call for scelled designs, embellished with a skilled artistical finish. Skill apart, it has special techniques, too, developed over years of thorough experience.




Dedicated, deft fingers, moving behind every Paithani has elevated it to a status symbol. Its ageless durability pays back the passive way the cost paid to own it.

Everything, save the natural silk, connected with Paithani does emit aroma of its own. It is the local soil. Let it be the producer, the designer, the weaver, the painter or even the sales professional. All are local, hidden well away in their ancestral homes in many a narrow lane.

PAITHANI:

Colours : Some of the traditional colours of Paithani are 'Anjeeri', 'Angoori'black chandrakala etc.

It is derived from the colour codes: yellowish red, parrot green, eagle blue, black chandrakala etc. And these depend upon the specific shades required. Paithani can also be done in any colour also as desired by a prospective customer.

Raw Material requirements:

The Loom: Loom required for Paithani are dyeing in the des Wooden loom of frames can be fashioned out by a carpenter. This should be of superior teak. Accessories being wooden pegs, stumps of buffalo or bullhorn for shuttles, stone platform, cane templates, pulleys etc. Space for loom: 10' X 10'

Natural silk: Natural silk of the highest purity 20/22 warp for extrusion, 3 ply waste silk original filaments of silver/gold, golden/silvery are required for traditional saree borders and should be of 3000 yards.For artwork and corridors, the filament requirement is 1200 yards standard.

Silk: A mature larva, well fed on mulberry leaves, while turning to hibernation in its pupal stage spins around it a protective cocoon. The strand surrounding the pupal case weighs about 100/150 grams of silk yarn on very deft, skilled, traditional treatment. This raw silk yarn is available in only the Seri cultural centres concentrated mainly in the State of Karnataka.

The extant price of this yarn is Rs.1800.00 net a kilogram. The yarn on procurement from Bangalore moved out to Yeola in Nasik District for dyeing in the desired shades. It is subsequently extruded on can extruders. Depending upon the size of the saree a wire mesh of 3250 wires is readied to receive the yarn with a view to start weaving.

Golden / Silvery Filament Yarn:


This is procured from Surat in Gujarat State. Pure filaments cost upto Rs. 8000-10000 Kilo Gram. Purity test is done by burning a bit of the yarn. Pure yarn turns white on burning.

Weaving of Paithani:

1. Traditional
2. Brocade
3. Muniya
4. Wall Hanging
5. Shawls

1. Traditional: In Paithani, Traditional coconut shaped design is woven by applying silk filament on lattice for these sarees. 20/22 warps three-ply waste silk and for borders 3000 yards of silver and golden filaments are used. It takes approximately 1 to 1.5 months to finish a piece. The weight is approximately 750 to 950 Grams. Raw material cost is upto Rs. 4000 and labor charges Rs. 1000 per saree of 1.2-meter X 5.5 Meter size and a 80 cm piece for blouse will cost Rs. 7000/-.

2. Brocade: Requirement of silk, here, is as much as that for the traditional gold / silver filament i.e. 1200 yards. The piece ranges between minimum of Rs. 10000 to Rs. 20000 a piece in accordance with the design and dimension of 1.2 meters by 5.5 meters.

3. Wall Hangings: Production procedure being the same, a wall hanging, 45 cms. By 1.2 meters size costs Rs. 5000 to Rs. 15000 a piece, depending upon the designs. Time to complete also varies from 1 month to 3 months. Design is the deciding factor here, again.

4. Shawls: Size 1.2 meters by 2.1 meters price Rs. 4000 to Rs. 15000. Production time depends, here, again upon the designs. It may vary from 30 to 60 days.

Contact Info. :

Shamim is a mask weaver and has exhibited his work in France.He has recently done a project for 'The Grand Maratha 'Mumbai' for their reception.

Address :

Golden Paithani Saree Products.
Nehru chawk, Paithan
Dist. Aurangabad Maharashtra 431107
Office no. : ( 02431) 23769

( Article by Shamim )


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